Saw horses (to build the lockers on)

Apron (to hold nuts and bolts)

Screw-gun with 3/8" hex bit (to tighten nuts and bolts)

Awl (to align holes in adjacent pieces)

Rubber mallet (the universal fix all tool)

Pop rivet tool (to install number plates)

Hammer drill (to drill into wall for anchors)

Level

Chop saw (if you are constructing a plastic wood base)

Phillips head #2 screw tip for screw gun (to construct plastic wood base)

Build the lockers in sections of 3 to 5 frames, then bolt these sections together and finally anchor them into the wall. Two people can handle the job, but three is ideal - one to prepare parts for assembly, one to assemble the lockers and one to finish the details (locks, number plates, no missing nuts/bolts, etc.)

Organize the locker components by tops, bottoms, backs, sides, shelves, and so on. (Back panels have two edges folded up at a right angle, side panels only have one.) Orient the horses so that you can easily move parts from the piles to the horses.
Typical Setup:

Install two hooks on all back panels. This is easiest to do with the back standing up. Use 3/8" nuts and bolts throughout the entire assembly process unless otherwise specified.

Place a back panel on saw horses. Take a side panel and place it inside the lip of the back panel. Line up holes and "start" nuts and bolts to fill in these holes (quantity of 8). If you chose solid sides on the section ends, use a solid side, otherwise use the expanded metal mesh side.

Place the bottom on the back and side assembly. Line up holes (2 on side and 2 on back) and "start" nuts and bolts. Do the same for the top. Place the shelf on the back and side assembly, typically 12" down from top. (Shelf MUST be at 12" if using upper lock boxes - see step 8) Line up holes (2 on side and 2 on back) and "start" nuts and bolts. Install rear legs if necessary.

With the screw gun or a hand wrench, tighten all nuts and bolts the length of the locker.

If your lockers have legs, use one rear leg per corner intersection. You don't need to double up on rear legs..

When you have the framing for the section size you want (typically 3 to 5 frames) you need to finish the section. Take a side panel and slide it inside the lip of the back panel. Line up all holes (from side, back, top, shelf and bottom) and "start" nuts and bolts. Leave leg nuts and bolts a little loose for now, as you may need to adjust the leg height when leveling the lockers during installation. Tighten all other nuts and bolts

Drop the section of lockers onto the ground. Move this section out of the way to make room for the next section to be built.

If you do not have lock boxes with your lockers, proceed to step 10.

Construct the box portion of the upper lock box (leave the door off for now). Install the box between the locker top and shelf. Once you have the box installed, attach the door.

If you ordered combination padlocks, proceed to step 9A.
If you ordered built-in combination locks, proceed to step 10. The locks will be installed after the lockers themselves are in place in your location.

Install the escutcheon plates to the doors. Put the tab through the vertical slot from the back side of the door and attach the plate with two nuts & bolts.

Install front frames on lockers moving left to right. Locker frame should slide over the lip of the top and over the lip of the bottom. The front frame will fit into the notches of the top and bottom pieces. It is usually quickest and easiest to install the top-most and bottom-most nut and bolt of each frame loosely, then fill in the remainder of the nuts and bolts when all front frames are on.

Use the awl to line up holes between adjacent front frames and side panels. Place the awl in the hole directly beneath (or above) the hole you want to fill in. Wiggle it around to get the holes to line up as much as possible and then fill in the nut and bolt below (or above). Tighten all nuts and bolts when complete.

On the end lockers, fill in only the top-most and bottom-most nuts and bolts. Do not tighten them, as you will be taking them out and using these holes to tie into adjacent sections when you install the lockers to a wall. At this point you should have a completed section of turn out gear lockers.

Use common nuts and bolts on adjacent units. Make sure to use the hook washers so all hooks bolt securely to the expanded metal sides.

Place lockers in position around the room. Line up these adjacent end frames using the awl. Tie sections together along the length of the front frame using the 3/4" nuts and bolts.

Level the lockers using shims or by adjusting the rear legs as needed. If you are placing the lockers on a plastic wood base your base should already be plumb.

Anchor lockers using hammer drill. Drill through the metal back of locker approximately 6" from the bottom and 2" from the side panel into the wall. Insert plastic anchor and drive #14 hex head 2 ½" screws with washers into anchor in wall, securing lockers. Repeat this process just below the shelf and 2" from side panel. This anchoring process should be completed every third locker to ensure a secure installation.

If you installed lock boxes in step 8, attach number plates to lock box doors with two pop rivets. If you do not have lock boxes, you will need to drill two holes in the front edge of each shelf. Use a number plate as a template for hole spacing.

If you are using a Master Lock #1654 or #1670 lock, turn the dial to "0". CAREFULLY pull apart the lock, taking care not to turn the dial after the 2 pieces have been separated. If the dial does turn a little bit, gently ease the lock back together to re-align the inner mechanism. Separate again and continue. Install the lock into the hole in the lock box and secure with 2 nuts & bolts. Tighten nuts.

DO NOT CLOSE THE LOCKER DOOR YET.

Test the lock to make sure it works. Replace it if it doesn't function properly. The lock is now ready for use!

Note: As you install the locks, write down the locker numbers or people's names on the lock serial number sheet. This will allow you to keep track of which locks are installed in which lockers, should any of the locks ever need to be replaced.